waves are cranking hard this morning approx 5-7 footers. Nice northwest swell coming in, and it's supposed to get even bigger this afternoon



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I'd be out there on my boogie board in a heartbeat, but re-injured my rib dropping in on a 6 footer when I was out with Dave 3 days ago.

Landed totally flat coming off the lip, and fucked up my rib that was almost healed from breaking it 10 weeks ago in Rosarito

gonna need another 4 weeks at least to heal properly

great day to bust out my brand new fishing gear and go looking for a nice halibut from the beach