I’m 5’9 relatively short my lower body coordination sucks I have never attempted surfing
however I have extraordinary upper body coordination
I have been out in 10-12 foot surf body/boogie boarding countless times and been bruised and pounded
dropped in on a huge swell living in Ensenada at Estero beach and heard my rib crack landing
I am too old now but in my late 20’s and early 30’s I was fearless in big surf